Soft baits are usually just another way of saying soft plastics — flexible lures like paddle tails, grubs, jerkshads and prawn profiles that you rig on jigheads or hooks and fish with subtle movement and pauses. If you’re new to soft baits fishing, start simple: a paddle tail + the right jighead weight, fish structure, and let the lure sink on the pause.
What are soft baits?
Soft baits are soft-bodied lures made from flexible plastic or similar materials designed to look and move like real food — baitfish, prawns, worms, squid, you name it. Because they’re soft, they compress when a fish bites, which can help hookups. They also look “alive” even when you do very little, especially on the sink.
In Australia and the US, you’ll hear anglers and tackle shops use soft baits and soft plastics interchangeably. This site mainly uses “soft plastics” because that’s the most common search term — but if you call them soft baits, you’re in the right place.
Are soft baits the same as soft plastics?
Yes — most of the time, soft baits = soft plastics.
Sometimes people use “soft baits” to mean:
- scented plastics (especially if they’re marketed as “bait-like”), or
- plastics fished slowly and naturally like bait.
But in practical fishing terms, the same core skills apply: pick a lure profile, match the jighead to depth/current, work it with pauses, and fish around structure and edges.
Why soft baits catch fish (when bait doesn’t)
Soft baits are deadly because they let you cover water efficiently and adjust quickly without changing your whole setup.
- You can search: long casts, multiple retrieves, different depths.
- You can slow down: hop-pause on bottom, dead-stick, tiny twitches.
- You can “match the hatch”: prawns in an estuary, baitfish on a point, worms along sand/weed edges.
- You can dial in: if fish want smaller, slower, deeper, darker — you can change one variable at a time.
The biggest advantage: you can keep a lure in the strike zone and trigger bites on the sink. A lot of the magic happens when you do nothing.
Soft bait types (and when to use each)
If you only own one style, make it a paddle tail. If you own two, add a jerkshad. Everything else is optional until you’ve got confidence.
Paddle tails
Best for: beginners, steady swims, covering water, consistent action.
Use when: fish are feeding mid-water, you want a simple slow roll, you’re learning.
Jerkshads / stickbaits
Best for: twitch-pause, imitating baitfish, finicky fish.
Use when: fish are following but not committing, clear water, pressured areas.
Grubs (curl tails)
Best for: simple action with minimal effort, good sink movement.
Use when: you want a reliable “do-nothing” lure that still works.
Prawn / shrimp profiles
Best for: estuaries, structure, finesse, bream/flathead-style feeding.
Use when: prawns are around, you’re fishing pontoons, weed edges, sand flats.
Worms / stick worms
Best for: finesse, weedless rigs, slow presentations.
Use when: snags are heavy, fish are timid, you need subtle movement.
Tip: Don’t fall into the trap of collecting 40 lure types. Pick a few and learn how they behave in the water.
How to rig soft baits (3 rigs you’ll actually use)
1) Jighead rig (the default)
This is the standard: plastic threaded onto a jighead. It’s versatile and perfect for learning.
Key rule: rig it dead straight. If it’s crooked, it will spin, track sideways, and get fewer bites.
If you want one core guide to master, it’s this: how to rig a soft plastic on a jighead properly.
2) Weedless rig (worm hook / EWG)
Great when you’re fishing heavy weed, snags, oysters, rock, or tight structure.
You trade a little hook exposure for snag resistance — and it can be the difference between “snag every cast” and “fish properly”.
3) Light finesse jighead (small profile)
This is a light jighead + smaller plastic approach. It’s deadly in calm conditions, clear water, and for finicky fish.
The goal is a slower sink and a more natural glide.
Jighead weight for soft baits (simple rule that works)
Here’s the rule I actually use:
Use the lightest jighead that still lets you maintain contact with your lure.
If you can’t feel bottom, can’t control the sink, or your line bows so much you’re guessing — go heavier.
If you’re constantly snagging, crashing to bottom, or the lure looks “dead” — go lighter.
What changes jighead weight?
- Depth (deeper = heavier)
- Current (more current = heavier)
- Wind (more wind bow = heavier)
- Line thickness (thicker = more drag)
- Lure size (bigger = more drag)
This is why two anglers can fish the same spot and need different weights — different gear and different line control.
Best retrieve for soft baits (start with these two)
Hop + pause (bottom bounce)
This is the bread-and-butter for a lot of estuary species and bottom-feeders.
- Cast out and let it sink.
- Lift the rod tip to hop it.
- Wind slack.
- Pause and let it sink again.
A huge percentage of bites happen on the sink, when the lure is fluttering down naturally. Watch your line — if it ticks, stops early, or moves sideways, strike.
Slow roll (steady swim)
Perfect for paddle tails and for searching.
- Cast.
- Let it sink to the depth you want.
- Slow, steady retrieve.
- Add a pause every now and then.
When the bite is tough, “too fast” is usually the problem. Slow down until you feel slightly ridiculous — then slow down again.
Soft bait colors: clear vs dirty water
Color matters, but it matters less than:
- being in the right zone,
- the right jighead weight,
- and pausing long enough.
Still, here’s a simple system:
Clear water
Start with natural/translucent colors that look like real bait: baitfish tones, subtle greens/browns, light prawn patterns. Clear water fish get a good look, so natural usually wins.
Dirty water / low light
Go darker for silhouette: blacks, dark purples, dark browns. Fish can “see” contrast better than detail in dirty water.
Loud / change-up colors
When nothing’s working, try a brighter or more visible option as a pattern-breaker. Don’t start here; use it when you need a change.
Where to fish soft baits (the high-percentage zones)
Soft baits are at their best around edges and structure — anywhere fish can ambush.
Look for:
- drop-offs and ledges
- sand flat edges
- weed lines
- rock walls
- pontoons, pylons, wharves
- current seams and pressure points
If you’re not getting bites, don’t just change lure color for an hour. Change the angle and the zone. Fish are often there — you’re just not putting the lure where they’re actually feeding.
Soft baits for popular species
Soft baits for flathead
Flathead love soft baits fished along bottom: hop-pause across sand, edges, and drop-offs. Keep contact, pause often, and expect bites on the sink.
Soft baits for bream
Bream can be picky. Smaller plastics, lighter jigheads, and subtle retrieves shine. Fish structure: pylons, pontoons, rock edges.
Soft baits for snapper
Snapper can hit soft baits hard — especially around structure and current lines. A steady swim with pauses and a controlled sink can be deadly.
Common mistakes in soft baits fishing (and quick fixes)
1) Fishing too fast
Fix: slow the retrieve and add longer pauses.
2) Jighead too heavy
Fix: drop weight until you get a more natural sink and fewer snags.
3) Not keeping contact
Fix: go slightly heavier or adjust your rod angle and line control.
4) Plastic rigged crooked
Fix: re-rig it. A straight lure catches more fish. It’s that simple.
5) Not fishing structure/edges
Fix: stop casting to “dead water”. Fish where bait and current meet structure.
Soft baits fishing FAQ (PAA-style)
What are soft baits?
Soft baits are flexible lures designed to imitate baitfish, prawns, worms and other prey. In most Australian fishing, “soft baits” simply means soft plastics. They’re rigged on jigheads or hooks and fished with subtle movement and pauses, often triggering bites as they sink naturally.
Are soft baits the same as soft plastics?
Most of the time, yes. “Soft baits” is commonly used as a casual term for soft plastics. Some anglers use “soft baits” to refer to scented or bait-like soft lures, but the rigging, retrieves and core approach are the same.
How do you rig soft baits on a jighead?
Line up the hook against the plastic first to see where the hook point should exit. Then push the hook straight through the centre of the nose and out at the correct point. Slide the plastic up to the jighead and make sure it sits perfectly straight — a crooked plastic spins and gets fewer bites.
What is the best jighead weight for soft baits?
The best jighead weight is the lightest one that still lets you control the lure and maintain contact. If you can’t feel bottom or the line bows too much in wind/current, go heavier. If you’re snagging constantly or the lure crashes down unnaturally, go lighter.
What color soft bait is best in clear water?
In clear water, start with natural or translucent colors that imitate real baitfish or prawns. Subtle greens, browns, and baitfish tones often work best because fish can see more detail and can be wary of loud colors.
What color soft bait is best in dirty water?
In dirty water or low light, darker colors often work well because they create a strong silhouette. Fish can find contrast more easily than fine detail in low visibility, so dark profiles can be easier for them to track and strike.
What’s the best retrieve for soft baits?
A great starting point is hop-and-pause: let the lure sink, hop it off bottom, then pause long enough for it to sink again. Many bites happen on the sink. If that’s not working, switch to a slow roll with occasional pauses, especially for paddle tails.
Do soft baits work in winter?
Yes. Winter often rewards slower presentations. Use slightly lighter weights where possible, fish deeper edges and structure, and extend your pauses. Winter fish can still bite hard — they just often want the lure moving less and staying in the zone longer.
Are soft baits good for beginners?
Yes. Soft baits are one of the best ways to learn lure fishing because you can cover water, fish multiple depths, and adjust retrieve, weight and color quickly. Start with a paddle tail on a jighead and focus on feeling the bottom and pausing on the sink.
Why do fish follow but not bite soft baits?
Usually it’s speed, profile, or commitment. Slow down, add longer pauses, or downsize the lure. Try a jerkshad twitch-pause retrieve and give fish time to eat it. Sometimes a slightly lighter jighead helps because the lure sinks more naturally.
How do I stop snagging soft baits?
First, use the lightest jighead that still maintains contact — too heavy snags more. Second, adjust your retrieve so the lure lifts over structure instead of dragging through it. If snags are unavoidable, switch to a weedless rig so you can fish the same areas without donating jigheads.
Do I need scent for soft baits?
Scent can help, but it’s not a magic switch. Location, presentation, jighead weight, and pauses matter more. If fish are biting short or holding the lure briefly, scent can improve your hook-up rate — but don’t rely on it to fix poor positioning or retrieve.
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