What is soft plastics fishing?
Soft plastics fishing is a style of lure fishing where you use flexible “soft plastic” lures (often called soft baits) to imitate baitfish, prawns, worms or squid. You typically rig them on a jighead or a hook, cast them around structure and edges, then work them back with subtle retrieves and—most importantly—pauses that let the lure sink naturally. It’s one of the most versatile ways to fish because you can adjust lure type, weight, color and retrieve to match depth, current and water clarity.
Why soft plastics fishing works (and why it’s addictive)
Soft plastics work because they’re easy to adapt and they look natural even when you do very little.
- They stay in the strike zone. With the right jighead weight, you can keep the lure near bottom, mid-water, or along a drop-off for longer.
- The pause triggers bites. A lot of fish eat soft plastics as they sink—when the lure looks like an easy meal.
- You can fish any depth and condition. Swap jighead weight for wind/current, change color for visibility, and pick a profile that matches what fish are feeding on.
- You can cover water fast or slow right down. Slow roll, hop-and-pause, twitch-pause, dead-stick—it’s all on the table.
- They catch a wide range of species. From estuary fish to bigger predators, the same fundamentals translate.
If you’re new, don’t overcomplicate it. Start with a paddle tail, rig it straight, fish the lightest jighead that still keeps contact, and build confidence from there.
How to start soft plastics fishing
The simple system (80/20)
If you remember nothing else, remember this: soft plastics fishing is mostly weight + zone + a pause.
1) Weight: use the lightest jighead that still keeps contact
You want enough weight to feel what the lure is doing (or at least control the sink), but not so much that it crashes down and snags constantly.
- Can’t feel bottom / line is bowing? Go heavier
- Snagging heaps / lure plummets? Go lighter
2) Zone: fish edges and structure, not dead water
Soft plastics shine around places fish ambush:
- drop-offs and ledges
- weed edges
- sand flat edges
- rock walls and pontoons
- current seams
If you’re not getting bites, change angle + zone before you change your fifth color.
3) Pause: most bites happen when the lure is sinking
Hop it, then pause long enough for it to sink again. Watch the line on the drop—ticks, stops early, or slides sideways are often bites.
4) Adjust one variable at a time
When it’s not working, don’t randomly change everything. Change just one:
- jighead weight or
- lure size/profile or
- retrieve speed or
- color/contrast
That’s how you learn what the fish actually wanted.
Quick Start: your first soft plastics tackle list
You don’t need a tackle shop in your backpack. This is a clean, cheap starter kit that catches fish.
Soft plastics (pick 2 styles, 2 sizes)
- Paddle tail (your “search lure”)
- Jerkshad or grub (your “change-up”)
Sizes: one smaller, one medium (match your local species).
Jigheads & terminal tackle (the essentials)
- Jigheads in 3 weights (light / medium / heavy for your usual spots)
- A couple hook sizes to match your plastics
- Leader material (fluoro is common)
- Snaps/clips (optional — many anglers tie direct; do what you prefer)
Gear (keep it simple)
- 1 rod + reel setup you can cast all day
- Braid mainline + leader
- Long-nose pliers / forceps
- Small scissors or line cutters
- Polarised sunnies (helps you read water and see edges)
- A small sling bag / tackle tray
The “2 plastics, 2 colors” rule (no decision fatigue)
Start with:
- 1 natural color (clear water default)
- 1 dark color (dirty water / low light)
Once you can catch fish on those, then expand.
First session game plan (simple)
- Tie on a paddle tail
- Start mid-weight jighead
- Fish hop-and-pause along an edge
- If no bites in 15–20 mins: adjust weight or zone first
- If fish follow but don’t eat: switch to a jerkshad + longer pauses